Archive | Fall 2014

JapVegSlide

Cooking with Japanese Vegetables

A Meal for Four

Recipes by Yukiko Kennedy • Photography by D. Lucas Landis  

Beautiful produce, clean flavors, the excitement and energy of trying new and unfamiliar recipes—all of this went into the testing of these great recipes. What follows is a wonderful foray into Japanese cuisine inspired by the Japanese vegetables grown at White Yarrow Farm. Forget everything you know about fast-food sushi and enjoy this celebration of simple ingredients and seasonal produce. —Tara Swartzendruber-Landis, recipe editor

Ingredients

• Dashi: A broth made from kombu (dried kelp) and dried tuna shavings (bonito or katsuobushi). Dashi is the base flavor of many Japanese recipes, providing a rich umami taste. Pre-made dashi, often sold in granules like an instant soup base, can be hard to find in the Michiana area. If you cannot buy it at your local Asian grocery, you can make your own dashi by soaking and then simmering a couple of pieces of kombu, reducing the mixture by boiling for about 10 minutes, then adding about 2 cups of tuna shavings, simmering another 10 minutes and straining. (Kombu and dried tuna flakes are available at Whole Foods Market in Mishawaka, Indiana). • Kokabu: These tender, sweet turnips … Read More

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Tomato Carpaccio

Heartland Fare

Many Cultures Meet on Midwestern Tables

By Amy Thielen

Amy Thielen is the author of The New Midwestern Table (Clarkson Potter, 2013), the host of Food Network’s Heartland Table, and a James Beard award-winning food writer. A former New York City line cook, she moved back home to northern Minnesota in 2008 with her husband and their son. She can be found at AmyThielen.com.

The Midwest is home to a great tradition of American country cooking—food that’s rustic, gutsy and simple.

From meals sampled at friends’ and relatives’ tables across the region, it’s plain that generosity coexists with thrift, culminating in spreads laden with a profusion of unfancy, one-stroke dishes. The composition of a traditional plate generally goes like this: meat, starch, two vegetables and bread, followed by dessert.

By and large, we’re seasonal cooks—not just because it’s currently fashionable, but because in-season ingredients are less expensive, taste better and, in our staunchly four-season climate, are truly fleeting: When we come across wild berries, ducks, asparagus, pecans or cherished morel mushrooms, we snap them up. A lot of the best Midwestern food involves a very American intimacy with the wilderness, some hunting and gathering, a principle that counts even if … Read More

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Ginger

Ginger and Turmeric Coconut Soup

Michiana-grown ginger and turmeric from Clay Bottom Farm (Goshen, Indiana) inspire a warming Southeast Asian-style soup. (Look for ginger at the farm’s stall at the Goshen Farmers Market in late September. Ginger can be purchased fresh and then frozen for use through the fall and winter. (Clay Bottom is not growing turmeric this season.)

Serves 4–6 as an appetizer or 2 as a main course  

2 inches fresh ginger, grated (about 1½ tablespoons)

2 shallots, diced (about ½ cup) 2 large garlic cloves, sliced thin

2 inches fresh turmeric*, grated (about 1½ tablespoons)

1 tablespoon fresh lemongrass, finely sliced

2–3 fresh red chilies, sliced

1 teaspoon dried coriander 2 (13½-ounce) cans coconut milk

Zest of 1 lime or two Kaffir lime leaves

1 tablespoon lime juice, about 1 lime

2 star anise, whole 1 tablespoon brown sugar, packed

½ tablespoon soy sauce 1 teaspoon salt

1 bunch of mizuna greens, bok choy or spinach (about 2 cups), chopped

1 large potato, peeled and cubed (about 1 cup)

5 medium carrots, thinly sliced at an angle (about 2 cups)

2 cups chicken broth 2 cups water ½ teaspoon of fish sauce (optional)

Place the ginger, shallot, garlic, turmeric, lemongrass, chilies and … Read More

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Fig Salad

Grilled Fig Salad with Fresh Mozzarella and Balsamic Glaze

Serves 4 as an appetizer or 2 as a main dish  

1 pint or 8 fresh figs

4 slices prosciutto, split in half the long way

8 rosemary stalks, bottom ⅔ leaves removed

3/4 cup balsamic vinegar

1 tablespoon brown sugar

5 ounces arugula or other spicy salad green

4 ounces mozzarella, fresh

1 lemon, quartered

2 tablespoons olive oil

Salt

Wrap each fig with 1/2 slice prosciutto; secure with a toothpick. Push a rosemary stalk through each one. Place on a 200º grill for 5–15 minutes, until they are warmed through.

Place the vinegar and brown sugar in a nonreactive pan. Over medium heat, reduce the mixture to about ⅓ cup.

Arrange the greens and mozzarella on plates. Garnish each with a lemon quarter.

Place a warm fig kebab on the salad, drizzle with olive oil and the balsamic reduction and season with salt. Serve warm.

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Fig shortcake

Fig Shortcake Topping with Crème Fraîche

Each summer we celebrate the arrival of strawberries by making shortcake. Why not do the same with fall figs? Make a batch of your favorite shortcake (we like this one from our friends at Edible Ojai: edibleojai.com/recipes/desserts/claud-manns-strawberry-shortcake), then serve this as a brunch treat or for a special dessert.

Serves 6 

 

6–8 figs, stems removed, chopped

1 tablespoon brown sugar

1 tablespoon fresh ginger (about a 2-inch piece), finely chopped

Pinch of salt

1/4 cup water

1 tablespoon lime juice, about 1/2 lime

1 tablespoon honey

4 ounces crème Fraîche

6 shortcakes, sliced in half horizontally

Place the figs, brown sugar, ginger, salt and water in a pan over medium heat. Cook for about 10–15 minutes, until the figs are soft. Add the lime juice and stir in. Remove from the heat.

Place the crème Fraîche and honey in a small mixing bowl. Whisk together. Feel free to add more honey for a sweeter mixture.

Plate the shortcakes. Add 1–2 spoonfuls of the fig mixture and then drizzle the crème Fraîche on top. Serve.

Crème Fraîche

To make crème Fraîche at home, add 1 tablespoon cultured buttermilk to 1 cup fresh heavy cream. Stir and cover. Leave … Read More

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Tenderloin2

Love Me Tenderloin


Beloved Pork Sandwich Learning New Tricks

By MariJean Sanders
Illustrations by Katie Eberts

When I was asked to write a story about the pork tenderloin sandwich, I had to admit: I didn’t know what it was. But when I spotted the food truck at the Fourth of July event with its blazing sign advertising the Midwestern specialty, I thought, “Of course I know what a pork tenderloin sandwich is! It’s a Frisbee-size wedge of breaded, deep-fried pork between two slices of white bread.” I’ve probably eaten that hot, crispy sandwich dozens of times.

I was so used to seeing the pork tenderloin sandwich advertised at every fair, festival and food truck that I didn’t realize it was considered a “dish,” much less a pillar of Midwestern culture. To me, it was as commonplace as a burger or a hot dog, not a display of my regional identity.

The Midwest and its cuisine are often depicted as bland and unsophisticated, and the ubiquity of heavily breaded pork on white bread doesn’t do much to challenge those stereotypes. But the truth is that the pork tenderloin sandwich and the landscape it comes from are more inspiring that we often give them credit … Read More

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Tomato Carpaccio

Tomato Carpaccio with Horseradish Ice

Reprinted with permission from The New Midwestern Table by Amy Thielen

After you’ve eaten your fill of plain tomatoes, here’s a garnish that doesn’t obscure their purity. The horseradish ice looks fancy but is easy to prepare. And when you take the icy sweet horseradish granita and the warm juicy tomatoes in one bite, summer meets winter, sweetness meets heat and the saline beads of moisture on the surface of the tomatoes are enough to make a drizzle of olive oil wholly unnecessary. It nearly goes without saying, but this side dish is excellent with a steak.

Serves 6 to 8  

1 cup whole milk

1/4 cup grated fresh horseradish, or 3 tablespoons good-quality prepared horseradish

1 teaspoon sugar

Fine sea salt

2 pounds mixed heirloom tomatoes, beefsteak and cherry

1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice

Freshly cracked black pepper

1 tablespoon chopped fresh parsley

 

Whisk together the milk, horseradish, sugar, and ⅜ teaspoon salt and pour into a glass dish. Freeze for 1 hour, or until the milk at the sides of the dish begins to freeze.

With a fork, rake the frozen sides into the slushy center. Freeze for another 30 minutes. Rake it again, and then freeze until … Read More

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tractor

Greenhouse of the Rising Sun

Organic Michigan Farmstead Specializes in Japanese Vegetables

By Ann Hostetler Photography by David Johnson  

As I drove up their long driveway, lined with white yarrow, I understood where Dale Hasenick and Jo Beachy had found the name for their farm, a name that also suits Jo’s thriving flower-growing business: White Yarrow Farm.

When I arrived at the top of the driveway, I spotted Dale in waders washing kokabu (small white Japanese turnips) with a garden hose, and Jo in the barn arranging buckets of huge blue delphiniums and fluffy pink peonies. When I learned that Jo and Dale had created White Yarrow Farm—house, barn, greenhouse and fields—from scratch, I was amazed. Although the well-tended vegetable and flower fields take up five or six acres, the entire property is much larger, made up of woodland, wetlands and pasture, creating a peaceful setting and a natural buffer for their organic-style farming methods.

Kyoko Chapman
Kyoko Chapman lives in Goshen, Indiana, where she relocated from Hiroshima, Japan, 24 years ago to work at Nishikawa Cooper in Topeka as a purchasing buyer. Kyoko loves having access to fresh, local Japanese vegetables through White Yarrow Farm’s stand in Goshen. “His daikon in the fall is

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For dessert, our server recommended the cocoa praline crunch and the crème brulée (mango, banana and lime). She was clearly a mind reader or a genius—maybe both.

Modern Midwestern

Sky’s the Limit for Cerulean Crew

By Maya Parson Photography by Ashley Dru  

People often ask me where to eat in Michiana. As editor of Edible Michiana, I have many local favorites, but Cerulean in Winona Lake, Indiana, is always at the top of my list.

How good is it? Let’s just say that when a group of EM staff and writers had lunch recently, we devoured the contents of our bento boxes. Then chef Caleb France sent out a few more items “to photograph”…and we ate those, too. Every. Last. Bite. (One can’t let house-made duck bacon with nasturtium ricotta and foraged nettle risotto go to waste!)

On the way home, we talked about when we could come back. Would dinner be too soon? —MP

For dessert, our server recommended the cocoa praline crunch and the crème brulée (mango, banana and lime). She was clearly a mind reader or a genius—maybe both.

Edible Michiana staff and writers enjoy a Japanese-style lunch elevated by Midwestern ingredients like farm-fresh vegetables and herbs.

Ask Caleb France, owner and chef of Cerulean Restaurant in Winona Lake, Indiana, to describe his food and he will use the words modern Midwestern. But … Read More

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Sancocho is a traditional Puerto Rican stew. This recipe comes from Javier Mendez of Javier’s Bistro in South Bend, Indiana.

Sancocho and Sofrito

Sancocho is a traditional Puerto Rican stew. This recipe comes from Javier Mendez of Javier’s Bistro in South Bend, Indiana.

Sancocho

Note: Adobo, yuca and plantains can be found at Latin American groceries and many larger supermarkets. Pre-made sofrito is also sometimes available.
Makes 6 portions

2 tablespoons vegetable or olive oil
1½ pounds stew meat, cut into 2- to 3-inch pieces (Javier uses beef, but this dish could be made with chicken or pork.)
1 large onion, diced in large pieces
½ pound red potato, diced
½ cup celery, diced in large pieces
1 cup summer squash or carrots, diced in large pieces
⅓ pound plantain, sliced
½ cup tomato sauce
½ cup red wine
2 quarts water
2 teaspoons garlic, minced
¼ bunch cilantro leaves, chopped
2 teaspoon adobo (see note above)
¼ cup sofrito (see recipe below)
½ teaspoon oregano
¼ teaspoon marjoram
2 bay leaves
2 cups corn kernels
⅓ pound yuca, peeled and diced
1 cup peas

Heat the oil in a large frying pan. Cook the meat over medium-high heat until browned on all sides. Add the onion and sauté for 2 minutes. Add the potatoes, celery, squash or carrots and plantains and sauté … Read More

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