Archive | Spring 2013

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Escoffier Questionnaire: John Franchetti

Illustration: Dan Bransfield, DanBran.com

ESCOFFIER QUESTIONNAIRE: JOHN FRANCHETTI

BY MARISSA GUGGIANA

Learning that this issue would be an ode to local dairy, I immediately thought of Chef John Franchetti and that naturally led to my rolling Rossoo Pizzeria’s extraordinarily delicious burrata around in my mind’s mouth.

John is the chef and co-owner of Rosso, which now has a location in Petaluma as well as its original home in Santa Rosa. John is a Sonoma Countian by birth, but took off his culinary training wheels in New Orleans, working at Commander’s Palace and also under the tutelage of Emeril Lagasse. He eventually came home to northern California and, after perfecting pizza at St. Helena’s Tra Vigne, he opened Rosso with partner Kevin Cronin. There, they make and serve those rounds of dairy divinity that I still savor long after I leave the restaurant. John buys his groceries at the farmers’ market and helps the local “slow foodies” in their efforts. He is a good neighbor, in harmony with being a very good cook.

To turn an Escoffier Questionnaire query on myself, I would describe Rosso and John with the same three adjectives: warm, honest and deliziosissima.

Chef: John Franchetti… Read More

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Notable Edibles

NOTABLE EDIBLES

Grab Your Passport!

Sonoma’s Dry Creek Valley celebrates over a century of winemaking with their biggest annual event, Passport to Dry Creek Valley, April 27–28.

Crafted in 1990 by the Winegrowers of Dry Creek Valley as a time every year when members of their community would come together to celebrate the generations of farmers, vintners and families that are the roots of the region, this event has blossomed into a world-renowned moveable feast.

 

Over one weekend, Passport guests are welcomed into more than 50 participating wineries, each offering a unique pairing of premium wine, gourmet food prepared by acclaimed local chefs and entertainment. Highlights include vineyard tours, samplings of exclusive vintages and the opportunity to rub elbows with the world-famous wine region’s celebrity winemakers and grape growers—all set against the backdrop of the breathtaking vineyards and rolling hills of the spectacular Dry Creek Valley.

Be sure to pack your passport, and a sense of adventure—each winery celebrates its own theme, a beloved tradition of the event.

WDCV.com/events/passport-to-dry-creek-valley.php

New Farm House Local Opens in Larkspur

Jeanine Samuel, owner of the newly opened Farm House Local in Larkspur, tells us that the market and café was developed with the intention … Read More

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Cherry on Top

CHERRY ON TOP

Find one of the “little people” diving into the glass of delicious and nutritious local milk in this photograph by Matthew Carden that has been hidden in another location within this issue and enter the page number of the hidden location on the Edible Marin & Wine Country homepage to win a $5 coupon good towards the purchase of any Clover Stornetta Farms product.

CloverStornetta.com

Enter to win at EdibleMarinandWineCountry.com

Entries are due by midnight on March 31, 2013 All correct entries will receive a $5 coupon. One coupon limit per household. Winners will be notified by email.

Read More
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Edible Advertiser Directory Spring 2013

 

Agricultural Supplies and Landscape Design

BEEKIND

Honey shop and beekeeping supplies and classes.

921 Gravenstein Hwy South, Sebastopol, and the Ferry Plaza Building, San Francisco

707.824.2905; Beekind.com

COTTAGE GARDENS OF PETALUMA

3995 Emerald Dr., Petaluma

707.778.8025; CottageGardensofPet.com

Animal Supplies and Veterinary Services

THE SAMS CLINIC

Veterinary specialists emphasizing minimally

invasive diagnosis and treatment.

489 Miller Ave., Mill Valley

415.380.0500; TheSamsClinic.com

WILD BIRDS UNLIMITED

Nature Shop for all of your wild bird needs.

Attract birds to your garden.

Vintage Oaks at Novato

415.893.0500; WBU.com/Marin

Arts and Craft Supplies, Holiday

Decorations and Wrapping Paper

ONCE AROUND

The felting, stamping, bookbinding, sewing, fabric-painting, wreath-making, embossing, scrapbooking, découpage, candle-crafting, soap-pouring, glitter, embroidery, knitting and more arts-and-crafts store.

352 Miller Ave., Mill Valley

415.389.1667; OnceAround.com

Cooking Schools

BAUMAN COLLEGE HOLISTIC NUTRITION AND CULINARY ARTS

Penngrove, Berkeley and Santa Cruz, plus

Boulder, Colorado

800.987.7530; BaumanCollege.org

FRESH STARTS COOKING SCHOOL

A program of Homeward Bound Marin.

Celebrity chef events and culinary classes with a difference.

1385 N. Hamilton Pkwy, Novato

415.382.3363, ext 211; HBofM.org

GROWKITCHEN

Center for Fooducation

Sebastopol

707.477.5367; GrowKitchen.com

IN THE KITCHEN CULINARY

Offering classes, workshops, kids’ classes and events and catering.

300 Turney St., Sausalito

415.331.8766; ITKCulinary.com

THE FORK AT POINT REYES FARMSTEAD CHEESE … Read More

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Say (Mac &) Cheese!

SAY (MAC &) CHEESE!

BY LAURA WERLIN

Photo: Maren Caruso, MarenCaruso.com

I didn’t always like mac & cheese. In fact, I pretty much loathed it. But cheese itself? I couldn’t get enough.

Admittedly, my affection didn’t begin with real cheese. Instead, my very first food memory is of a grilled cheese sandwich made with American cheese slices, Wonder bread and real butter (at least there was that). My mother dutifully cut the sandwich into toddler-sized triangles, and my tiny hands excitedly applied a death grip on the gooey delight.

Fast-forward a couple of decades, and my cheese love transferred to the real stuff. College parties included wheels of brie and real cheddar, which inevitably paved the way to the cheeses I love and celebrate now.

A career in television news served as the unlikely beginning of my role as a cheese author and educator. But all along, I had an insatiable appetite for food of all kinds, which was the precursor to writing about it. But cheese, American-made, caught my attention, and there was no turning back. A visit to the farmers’ market was an excuse to make a beeline for the tables of the California cheesemakers we now know … Read More

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Meet Your Maker

MEET YOUR MAKER

Local Farms and Ranches Offer Hands-On and Up-Close Experiences

BY JULIET BRASLOW

Our increasing consciousness about eating healthily and knowing where our food comes from has helped bridge the gap between consumers and the people who produce the food we eat. That said, many “city dwellers” still have a very vague understanding of what daily life is like on farms and ranches.

Fortunately, a growing number of farmers and ranchers worldwide have begun to offer a wide array of innovative opportunities for the public to gain firsthand (and often hands-on) experience, and a better appreciation, of the hard work and dedication required to produce the agricultural bounty so many of us have come to take for granted.

This burgeoning agricultural tourism movement, referred to as “agritourism,” is already well established in Europe and growing quickly in the United States—probably nowhere as rapidly as here in the North Bay. It’s a natural fit, as many agritourism opportunities in our area are within an hour’s drive of the major tourist destinations of San Francisco and the Wine Country.

A mere few miles may separate large urban populations from their rural neighbors, but that is often enough distance to … Read More

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A Passion For Goats

A PASSION FOR GOATS

Jennifer Bice of Redwood Hill Farm & Green Valley Organics

BY KATHLEEN THOMPSON HILL

Photos courtesy of the Bice family

How many 4-H or Future Farmers of America members dream of making their childhood interest, adolescent affinity or high school passion into a full-fledged business?

Many future farmers grow up on farms or in rural areas, and some know no other lifestyle. Animals become their best friends.

Jennifer Lynn Bice’s story is a little different.

Born at Queen of Angels Hospital in downtown Los Angeles, Bice and her ever-growing family spent her early years in Van Nuys, Sepulveda and Sylmar, California.

In 1968, her parents, Kenneth and Cynthia Bice, moved Jennifer and her nine siblings way north to the redwood-covered rolling hills of western Sonoma County, meaning northwest of Graton, the tiny burg northwest of Sebastopol.

Jennifer explains that “they weren’t hippies, and my dad wasn’t avoiding the draft (Vietnam), but there was a back-to-the- land movement at the same time. That’s what they were doing, and they bought two acres in a Gravenstein apple orchard that had become defunct in the ‘60s.”

“We lived in tract houses in Southern California with wall-to-wall neighbors, schools … Read More

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Edible Events Calendar

EDIBLE EVENTS CALENDAR

MARCH

35th Annual Barrel Tasting

March 1–3 & 8–10 (Northern California Wineries, WineRoad.com/events)

FOR THE LOVE OF CHEESE: TASTING & FARM

TOUR WITH MALT

March 2 (Giacomini Dairy, Point Reyes Station, Malt.org)

INTRODUCTION TO BEEKEEPING

March 2 (Sebastopol, 707.824.2905, Beekind.com/classes)

Wild Mushroom Foray & Wine Pairing Lunch

with Forager-Chef Elissa Rubin-Mahon

March 3 (Relish Culinary Center, Healdsburg, 707.431.9999, RelishCulinary.com)

HOME CHEESEMAKING: WINTER SONOMA

HERB GARDEN

March 3 (The Epicurean Connection, Sonoma, 707.935.7960, SheanaDavis.com)

KIDS COOKING CLASS AT ITK CULINARY

March 3 (Sausalito, ITKCulinary.com)

Marin Organic Volunteer Orientation

March 7 (Indian Valley Campus, College of Marin, Novato, MarinOrganic.org)

BACK TO BASICS: PERFECTING PASTA

March 8 (The Fork at Point Reyes Farmstead, 800.591.6878, TheForkatPointReyes.com)

7th ANNUAL BEE SYMPOSIUM

March 9 (Sebastopol, 707.824.2905,

Beekind.com/classes)

Calistoga Music Festival: Mustard, Mud, & Music

March 9 (Calistoga, CalistogaVisitors.com)

20th Annual Taste of Yountville

March 14–16 (Yountville, yountville.com/events)

FARM DINNER: THE FORK AT POINT REYES

FARMSTEAD

March 14 (Point Reyes Station, 800.591.6878, TheForkatPointReyes.com)

Relish Culinary Center: Healdsburg Culinary

Walking Day Tour

March 15 (Healdsburg, 877.759.1004, RelishCulinary.com)

IGNITING THE FIRE: FINDING HOPE IN ALDO

LEOPOLD’S LAND ETHIC

March 15–17 (Point Reyes Station, PtReyesBooks.com)

Tofu Making with Hodo Soy Beanery

March 16 (The Cooking School at … Read More

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Cabernet Franc

750 WINES

CABERNET FRANC

Our love affair with Cabernet Sauvignon’s papa!

BY DAVID AND MONICA STEVENS

As wine merchants, we enjoy introducing clients to varietals they are not familiar with and allowing them to just maybe find a new favorite!

In 2012, Cabernet Franc, commonly referred to as “Franc,” was one of our top-selling varietals, a close second to Cabernet Sauvignon. Many do not realize that Cabernet Sauvignon originated as a cross between Franc and Sauvignon Blanc. Franc ripens earlier than its Cabernet Sauvignon progeny, and is better suited to cooler climes. Franc performs well in stone and chalky soils, as well as in sandy terroir. Not as fleshy as Merlot and with less tannic structure than Cabernet Sauvignon, this deeply colored, thin-skinned grape offers floral, plum, blackberry, cassis, spice and fresh herb flavors when ripe. Before it is fully ripe, it’s possible to find green pepper or other green vegetal aromas.

Franc is believed to have been established in the Libournais wine region of southwest France sometime in the 17th century after Franc vine cuttings were transported to the Loire Valley. We asked four of the top winemakers producing Napa Valley Franc about this grape and the reasons … Read More

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Boldly Going Where Small Family Dairies Must Go: Clover Stornetta and Three Generations of Innovation

Boldly Going Where Small Family Dairies Must Go: CLOVER STORNETTA and Three Generations of Innovation

BY ROBIN CARPENTER

Founder Gene Benedetti with Clo

“I believe in the future of farming, with a faith born not of words but of deeds—achievements won by the present and past generations of farmers; in the promise of better days through better ways, even as the better things we now enjoy have come to us from the struggles of former years.”

—From the Future Farmers of America Creed

“At Clover, we work with the most select group of small family-owned dairies. These multigenerational dairies understand that, in order to produce exceptional milk, you must take excellent care of your cows and your land.”

—Marcus Benedetti, president of Clover Stornetta Farms

It might be unusual to use the words traditional and innovative to describe the same thing, or to be asked to consider the love and hard work put forth by a farming family as a part of the terroir of their products, but for Sonoma County’s Clover Stornetta Farms, all of these descriptors are apt. The historical dairy processor honors the traditions of strong family ties, good land stewardship and animal husbandry while seeking … Read More

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