TEXT AND PHOTOS BY MARISSA L A BRECQUE
In a small town like Mill Valley new narratives tend to interweave with layers of history.
Molina, the current resident of the downtown space that long housed local favorite Small Shed Flatbreads, has a freshly scrubbed hipness that is beguiling: esoteric animalia murals adorn the walls and the playlist for the evening—on vinyl, of course—is delivered with your menu.
Molina’s proprietor and chef, Todd Shoberg, is young with an open face and an open kitchen. Coats of history in the building add an authentic patina. The Alan Scott brick oven remains, though the surface surrounding it has been gussied up. Ged Robertson, owner of Small Shed Flatbreads, remains as a partner in the new venture.
Chef Shoberg also has a long-running Mill Valley plot line as the highly regarded former executive chef at Piatti Mill Valley. Shoberg’s commitment to supporting local food producers, as reported in the Spring 2012 issue of this magazine, has only intensified in this new endeavor.
Labels of traditional vs. innovative, tried and true vs. leading edge aside, listening to Miles Davis’s Miles in the Sky and biting into a buttery, taut, peak-of-the-season pea is forever … Read More