Tag Archives | Winter 2013 Recipes

Shiitake Duxelles Pâté


Ways to Enjoy Your Harvest

A duxelles is a traditional French preparation of sautéed chopped mushrooms and shallots that can be used in anything from sauces to stuffing. Here I have turned it into a pâté to be served with crackers or bread as an hors d’oeuvres. Aside from shallots, there is no better pairing with mushrooms than cream and sherry so all are included as supporting players to the main character, the stage-hogging shiitake. To give it an extra-creamy texture, you can add softened cream cheese at the end or leave the mushrooms to take the final bow by themselves.

Shiitake Duxelles Pâté

  • Oil
  • ½ cup minced onion or shallot
  • 1 small clove garlic, minced
  • 12 ounces shiitakes, stems removed, chopped coarsely
  • 2 stems of fresh thyme or ½ teaspoon dried
  • Salt
  • 1 tablespoon sherry
  • ¼ cup heavy cream
  • 3 tablespoons freshly grated Parmesan
  • ¼ cup cream cheese (optional)

Put about 1 tablespoon of oil in a wide sauté pan and put on medium heat. Add the onion or shallot and garlic and cook until slightly browned, about 5 to 7 minutes. Add the mushrooms and a pinch of salt and continue to cook. When the mushrooms have released most of their liquid and are starting to brown, add the sherry and stir, scraping the browned bits off the bottom of the pan. Add the cream and thyme and continue to cook until the mixture has thickened to a near paste. Remove from heat, add Parmesan and adjust seasonings to taste. If adding cream cheese, cool the mixture a little then fold the cream cheese in until well blended. Serve with plain crackers or bread.

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Vermont Manhattan


Yield: 1 serving

  • 1½ ounces WhistlePig Rye
  • ½ ounce Orleans (or to taste)
  • ½ dropper each of Urban Moonshine Maple and Original Bitters
  • ½ to 1 teaspoon local honey simple syrup (or to taste)
  • 1 WhistlePig-soaked cherry

Pour the liquid ingredients into a shaker together with four to five cubes of ice. Shake or stir. If you like your Manhattan up, strain into your favorite cocktail glass. If you prefer it on the rocks, pour the contents of the shaker into a highball. Those who like a “perfect” or dry Manhattan can leave out the simple syrup.

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Guild & Company’s Braised Vermont Rabbit with Apple Brandy


Serves 4

Guild & Company’s cocktail manager Michael Buonocore suggests serving this dish with the restaurant’s Applejack Rabbit cocktail, which combines Flag Hill Farm Apple Brandy with Grade B Vermont maple syrup and a splash of fresh orange and lemon juice. “Drinks with acidity, such as the Applejack Rabbit, pair well with food. The brandy and fresh citrus complement the gaminess of the rabbit with a refreshing brightness, while the maple syrup adds texture and an appropriate sweet accent. For once, apples and oranges do make sense together.”

For the cure:

  • 4 rabbit legs
  • 1 tablespoon kosher salt
  • 1 teaspoon coarsely ground fennel seeds
  • ½ teaspoon coarsely ground black pepper
  • ½ teaspoon coarsely ground juniper berries

For the braise:

  • 3 tablespoons olive oil
  • 4 small carrots, cut into a large dice
  • 4 stalks celery, cut into a large dice
  • 1 medium onion, cut into a large dice
  • 1 bunch fresh thyme stems, leaves removed and reserved
  • 1 cup apple brandy
  • 1 quart chicken stock
  • 1 tablespoon kosher salt

For the jus:

  • Reserved braising liquid
  • 2 medium shallots, peeled and cut in half lengthwise
  • 1 teaspoon olive oil
  • Reserved thyme leaves, finely chopped

For the purée:

  • 4 medium parsnips, peeled, cored and cut into a large dice
  • ¼ pound unsalted butter
  • ½ cup crème fraîche

For the salad:

  • 1 medium watermelon radish, julienned
  • 1 medium apple, julienned
  • 1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil
  • 1 teaspoon apple-cider vinegar
  • 1 tablespoon fresh flat-leaf parsley, cut into an extrafine chiffonade
  • 1 pinch sea salt

Cure the rabbit: Combine the salt, fennel, pepper and juniper in a small bowl; rub onto the rabbit legs. Place in a casserole, cover tightly with plastic wrap and refrigerate for a minimum of 12 hours.

Overnight is best.

Braise the rabbit: Preheat oven to 325°.

Remove the rabbit from the cure, brush off any remaining seasoning and pat dry. Heat the olive oil over medium-high heat in a large, heavy-bottomed stainless-steel sauté pan; sear the rabbit evenly on all sides until dark golden brown. Remove to a plate.

Add the carrots, celery and onion to the pan; cook until the vegetables are golden brown and caramelized. Add the thyme stems to the pan and cook until fragrant, about 1 minute. Carefully deglaze the pan with the brandy. Cook until the brandy is reduced by three quarters. Add the chicken stock, salt and rabbit legs to the pan. Bring to a boil; carefully transfer everything to a casserole dish. If you can use the same pan for this whole process, do. The legs should be covered by two thirds with braising liquid. If you do not have enough braising liquid, add chicken stock. Cover the casserole tightly with foil and braise for 1½ hours. Carefully remove the rabbit from the casserole and strain the liquid into a large container. Place the rabbit legs back into the casserole dish and cover with the strained braising liquid. Refrigerate overnight.

While the rabbit cools, wrap the shallot halves in foil and roast until very tender, about 45 minutes. Cool the shallots and cut each half into 2 equal pieces. Wrap in foil and refrigerate.

Finish dish: Preheat oven to 350°.

Remove the cooled rabbit legs from the braising liquid. Place the braising liquid in a saucepan and simmer gently over medium heat until reduced by three quarters.

Bring a large pot of water to a rapid boil; cook the parsnips until tender. Drain and place in a mixing bowl. Mash the parsnips with the butter and crème fraiche; pass the mixture through a fine-mesh strainer. This will give you an ultra-smooth purée.

In another medium bowl, combine the salad ingredients and toss gently to combine.

Place the rabbit legs, reduced braising liquid, roasted shallots and thyme leaves in a casserole dish; heat in the oven until warmed through. When ready to serve, crisp the tops of the rabbit legs under the broiler.

Spoon the parsnip purée onto heated plates. Place 1 rabbit leg and 1 quartered shallot on top of the purée. Divide the jus among each plate and top with the radish and apple salad. Serve immediately.

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The Common Man’s Vodka- and Gin-Cured Salmon


Serves 4 to 6

Many recipes for cured salmon call for aquavit, a Scandinavian spirit flavored with caraway, cumin, anise and citrus. Adam Longworth, the chef and co-owner of the Common Man, wanted to use a local Vermont spirit and eventually settled on equal parts of Vermont Spirits’ Vermont Vodka and Caledonia Spirits’ Barr Hill Gin. The salmon is purchased from Wood Mountain, which sources fish directly from the docks in Boston from purveyors that practice the highest standards of aquaculture.

The company places an emphasis on the shortest channel from producer to chef to table. Lorien Wroten, Adam’s partner, suggests serving the salmon with a very dry Riesling. Note: You will need a scale to measure the salt and sugar in this recipe.

  • 1 pound salmon, skin-on, preferably a piece cut from the top half of the fish
  • Juice of 1 lime
  • Juice and zest of 1 orange
  • 1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil
  • 2 teaspoons Vermont Spirits’ Vermont Gold Vodka
  • 2 teaspoons Caledonia Spirits’ Barr Hill Gin, preferably Old Tom style
  • ¾ ounce table salt
  • ½ ounce sugar
  • 1 tablespoon toasted fennel seeds
  • 1 tablespoon toasted coriander seeds
  • ½ cup fresh, chopped dill
  • ½ cup fresh chervil, chopped
  • ½ cup fresh tarragon, chopped
  • 1 teaspoon ground black pepper

For serving: Grilled, sliced country bread, horseradish-flavored crème fraîche, blanched haricots verts, sliced apple and red onion

Mix the lime juice, orange juice and zest, olive oil, vodka and gin together in a small bowl. Mix the salt, sugar, fennel, coriander, dill, chervil, tarragon and pepper together in another medium-sized bowl. Choose a small nonreactive baking pan long enough to hold the salmon and line it with plastic wrap, leaving plenty of wrap hanging over all four sides.

Sprinkle the bottom of the pan with ¼ of the herb mixture and form it into the shape of the salmon. Place the salmon skin side down on top of the herb mixture. Pour the liquid mixture on top of the salmon. Pack the remaining herb mixture on top and around the salmon. Take the excess plastic wrap hanging over the sides of the pan and wrap the salmon tightly, packing the herb mixture onto the salmon and covering it as best as you can with the curing mixture.

Place the pan in the refrigerator; cure for 4 days. After the fourth day, remove the fish from the plastic wrap, wipe off the herb mixture and pat dry. Slice the salmon and serve as desired.

At the Common Man, Adam slices the salmon into paper-thin pieces and piles it atop sliced country bread that has been brushed with olive oil, seasoned with salt and pepper and grilled. He tops this with horseradish-flavored crème fraîche, sliced red onion, sliced apple and blanched haricots verts.

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The Mad Taco’s Chicken Tacos with Homemade Crema


Serves 10, eating two tacos each Kit Perrault, one of the managers of the original Mad Taco in Waitsfield, suggests using Lawson’s Maple Nipple Ale to braise this chile-marinated chicken. Serve the assembled tacos with more of the Maple Nipple to drink. These tacos make fantastic party food and serve 10 people eating two tacos each. Of course, this assumes that your guests can stop at two tacos apiece.

  • 10 each whole dried ancho, guajillo and New Mexico chiles
  • 10 pounds skin-on, bone-in chicken legs
  • 1 cup plus 2 teaspoons fresh lime juice
  • 1 white Spanish onion, finely diced, divided (half reserved for serving)
  • 10 cloves garlic, minced
  • 4 tablespoons salt, divided
  • 1 (12-ounce) beer, such as Lawson’s
  • Maple Nipple Ale
  • 40 (6-inch) white corn tortillas
  • Fresh cilantro leaves and stems, cut into
  • 1-inch-long pieces, for serving Crema, for serving (see recipe below)

Make the chile-paste marinade: Place the chiles in three separate medium pots and cover with water (each type of chile gets its own pot). Simmer the chiles gently over medium heat until they are softened and almost completely rehydrated, about 1 hour. Remove from the heat to cool slightly; place the chiles and cooking water in a blender and purée (you may have to do this in batches).

Cool completely before using. Reserve 1 tablespoon of the paste to flavor the crema.

When the marinade is completely cool, combine it with the chicken legs, 1 cup of the lime juice, half of the diced onion, the garlic and 3 tablespoons of the salt in large, resealable Ziploc bags. Refrigerate for 3, and up to 5, days depending on how much chile flavor you want to absorb into the meat.

Braise the chicken: Preheat oven to 300°.

Place the marinated chicken legs thigh side down, legs sticking up, in a couple of large, heavy Dutch ovens or casseroles (you will most likely need more than one to make this full recipe), shingling the pieces to pack them tightly together. Add the chile purée and beer to the pan(s); the meat will not be completely covered. Don’t fret: The layer of skin on the chicken will protect the meat, and the chicken releases a lot of liquid as it cooks. Cover the pan(s) with a large piece of parchment paper and wrap tightly with foil. Braise the chicken until the joints break easily and the bones slide out of the meat without any resistance, about 1 to 1½ hours. The meat and marinade will darken as they cook, and you will start to notice a layer of rendered fat on the surface.

Carefully remove the chicken from the braising liquid to cool. Meanwhile, transfer the braising liquid to a large, heavybottomed pot; simmer gently until it is reduced by half, skimming any fat that rises to the surface. Remove the skin and bones from the chicken legs as soon as they are cool enough to handle; shred the meat (you will have about 6 pounds of cooked chicken).

Carefully mix the chicken with the reduced braising liquid to warm.

Assemble the tacos: Using 2 corn tortillas per taco, place a generous mound of the braised chicken in the center of the tortillas and top with a dollop of crema, fresh cilantro and chopped onion.

To make the crema: Combine 2 cups heavy cream with 1½ cups buttermilk in a ½-gallon Mason jar with a tight-fitting lid.

Let the jar sit on your counter for 1 to 3 days, until the mixture starts to thicken. When a thick layer has formed on top, mix well. Place the jar in the refrigerator to chill.

Mix the finished, chilled crema with the reserved chile paste, 2 teaspoons of the fresh lime juice and 1 tablespoon of the salt.

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Serves 4 to 6

This classic Italian dish can be made with cauliflower, broccoli or Romanesco. Use an unoaked white wine that is extra crisp and light. In Italy, this means a Trebbiano, Pinot Grigio or Vermentino. In Vermont, look for La Crescent. To add some heft to this dish, add a little bit of pancetta to the pan along with the garlic and cauliflower.

The sauce also makes a great spread for crostini.

  • ¼ to ½ cup good-quality extra-virgin olive oil, plus more as needed
  • 2 small cloves garlic, thinly sliced
  • 1 head cauliflower, cut into very small florets
  • ¾ teaspoon salt
  • ½ teaspoon pepper
  • Pinch red chile flakes
  • ¾ to 1 cup dry white wine, such as La Crescent, plus more as needed
  • 1 pound penne rigate
  • ½ cup finely grated Thistle Hill Tarentaise, Cobb Hill Ascutney Mountain or Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese, plus more for serving

Heat ¼ cup of the olive oil in a 2-quart saucepan over medium heat; add the garlic and cook until the garlic is fragrant, 1 to 2 minutes. Add the cauliflower florets, salt, pepper, chile flakes and ½ cup of the white wine. Top with an additional ¼ cup of olive oil; cover with a tight-fitting lid and simmer for 15 to 20 minutes, lowering the heat as needed to maintain a steady but gentle simmer. You do not want to brown the garlic. The cauliflower will steam in the wine and in its own water, which will slowly release.

Add additional wine in ¼-cup increments to keep the pot moist and cook until the cauliflower has become very tender. Use a potato masher to break up the cauliflower. Correct seasoning to taste with additional salt and pepper.

Meanwhile, cook the pasta according to package directions; drain, reserving 1 cup of the pasta cooking liquid.

Add the pasta back to the pot and mix with the cauliflower sauce and the cheese. Cook pasta and sauce over medium-low heat for several minutes, adding pasta cooking water as needed, and stirring often, until the pasta absorbs the sauce.

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Demi-Glace Sauce

For an even bolder flavor, try grilling the steaks. While the steaks are resting, prepare the whiskey demi-glace sauce in a skillet. Top the meat with desired amount of sauce. Serves 4.

  • 4 (10-ounce) New York strip steaks, about 1 inch thick
  • Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
  • 3 tablespoons olive oil, divided
  • ¼ cup finely chopped shallot
  • 1 garlic clove, minced
  • 1½ cups cremini mushrooms, wiped clean and thinly sliced*
  • ⅓ cup whiskey, preferably WhistlePig
  • 1¼ cups demi-glace or beef stock
  • ¼ cup heavy cream
  • 1 teaspoon chopped fresh rosemary plus additional sprigs for garnish

Preheat oven to 425°. Season steaks generously with salt and pepper.

Heat 2 tablespoons oil in an ovenproof skillet over medium-high heat. When oil is hot, add the steaks and sear approximately 3 to 4 minutes on each side. Transfer steaks to a baking sheet and bake in the oven for 6 minutes for medium rare.

In the same skillet, add the remaining 1 tablespoon olive oil over medium heat. Add the shallot, garlic and mushrooms and sauté for 2 minutes. Remove skillet from heat and carefully whisk in the whiskey. Return skillet to heat and cook for approximately 2 minutes. Add the demi-glace and return to a simmer. Slowly whisk in cream and rosemary and cook until sauce is slightly reduced.

Adjust seasonings with salt and pepper to taste. Spoon sauce over steaks and garnish with rosemary sprigs.

Note: Substitute white button, Portobello or shiitake mushrooms for the creminis, if desired.

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