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IN PRAISE OF BRAISING

 Photograph: D'Artagnan

Photograph: D’Artagnan

Story by Laurel Miller

Tender, fall-off-the-bone meat is always welcome in my book, especially when we’re mid-Snowpacalypse. Happily, the Roaring Fork Valley has a handful of acclaimed producers of humanely-raised livestock (many of which are heritage breeds), so high-quality pork, beef, lamb, rabbit, and poultry are plentiful and available through ranch stores and meat shares (where the consumer purchased a portion of, or the whole animal).

Lean or tough “working” muscle cuts like shoulder, chuck, brisket, and shank are ideal for low, slow cooking methods like braising. The same is true of grassfed beef, which has less marbling than animals finished on grain. Braising is a combination cooking method that uses both moist and dry heat. The meat must first be seasoned and seared, which seals in juices and adds flavor; the pot is then deglazed, and the meat and aromatics and other ingredients including liquid (which acts as a tenderizing agent and breaks down the tough protein strands) are added. This second step can be done on the stovetop or in the oven.

once upon a chef

Searing meat adds flavor. Photograph: Once Upon a Chef

I love braises for their simplicity—they’re best made a day ahead and they require little attendance after the ingredients are combined—but the end result is a rich, complex, dish that’s nourishing as well as nurturing. I prefer to serve braised meat with a simple green salad and hunks of crusty bread, but you can also ladle them atop buttered noodles (try a wide variety like pappardelle), or with boiled or roasted potatoes, polenta, or grains. Look for cuts like lamb or beef shanks, oxtail, pork shoulder or butt, beef brisket, chuck or short ribs, or poultry or rabbit (the technique for breaking down a whole chicken, right here).

American Highlands cattle and guardian Gretl. Photograph: Mountain Primal Meat Co.

American Highland cattle and guardian Gretl. Photograph: Mountain Primal Meat Co.

If you’re looking to buy into a meat share, ACES at Rock Bottom Ranch in Basalt raises heritage breed pigs (the Large Black and Tamworth breeds, which are listed as critically endangered and threatened, respectively, on the National Livestock Conservancy website), and also pasture-raised poultry. Call 970.927.6760 or email rockbottom@aspennature.org for details.

Rabbit is lean, and ideal for braising. Photograph: Great British Chefs

Rabbit is lean, and ideal for braising. Photograph: Great British Chefs

Carbondale’s Sustainable Settings sells soup hens (older laying hens, ideal for stewing or soup stock), turkeys, and pasture-raised pork from their farm store, and Basalt’s Mountain Primal Meat Co. has Berkshire pork and American Highlands grassfed beef, available direct from their ranch. Merrill’s Family Farm, also in Carbondale, sells whole and half-hog shares of their pasture-raised Large Black hogs, as well as live meat rabbits.

Braised Chicken with Olives & Bay Leaves

From one of my most treasured cookbooks comes this simple, homey recipe. Feel free to substitute rabbit or pork shoulder. Hesser suggests serving it with potatoes mashed with butter and cream.

Recipe from The Cook and the Gardner, by Amanda Hesser (Norton)

Serves 4

1-2 tablespoons olive oil

1 chicken (about 4 pounds), cut into 8 pieces

Kosher salt

2 ounces thickly sliced bacon, cut into 1-inch pieces

2 cloves garlic

3 bay leaves

1 cup green or picholine olives, pitted

2 cups dry white wine

  1. In a large saute pan fitted with a lid, heat the oil over medium-high heat. Lightly season the chicken on all sides with salt and pepper. Add the chicken to the pan and saute until browned, turning once, about 10 to 12 minutes. Remove the chicken from the pan.
  2.  Add the bacon to the pan and brown, 3 to 4 minutes. Pour off all but 1 tablespoon fat from the pan. Add the garlic cloves, bay leaves, olives, and white white and bring the liquid to a boil. Return the chicken to the pan, cover and simmer over low heat until the chicken is very tender when pierced with a fork, about 35 to 45 minutes. Discard the garlic cloves and bay leaves. Adjust seasoning, transfer to a serving dish, and serve.

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Laurel Miller is a Basalt-based food and travel writer and cheese consultant, the co-author of Cheese for Dummies and the contributing editor at the magazine culture: the word on cheese. She persists in freelancing because it gives her more time to play outside. Find out more about Laurel at SustainableKitchen.com.

 

 

Photograph: Sustainable Settings

Photograph: Sustainable Settings

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